In a country where rules exist on how deep one bows, when, and for whom, and where protocol is clear on when to give gifts, how, and why one would think tradition rules. Saying it doesn't is misleading. Truly, manners matter in Japan. Rather, manners have mattered in Japan. Change is in the air.
When the earthquake hit on March 11th, Tokyoites walked home hours on end. I am blessed for having heard story after story of random acts of kindness during the seven or eight hours some people spent walking. This side of Japan always impresses me. This side of Japan I love. This is what I want people to know about Japan.
I will not, however, sacrifice the whole truth for the sake of a good story. Day after day, I see more and more cases of what I can only call obnoxious behavior in Tokyo. Evidently, the Japanese are just as capable of being rude and horribly behaved as they are of having impeccable manners. What's going on? Has Japan always been like this and I'm just now noticing? I think not. The Japan of my childhood is slowly disappearing. Certainly Japan has always had its share of rude people. To say otherwise is naive and irresponsible. As a society however, en masse, I have been blessed with seeing incredibly generous people with manners a society can be proud of. Which is why when I see such flagrant changes in Japanese behavior, I can only stand back and take notice and cringe.
In the past several years in Japan I have seen every emergency vehicle have to ask for cars to move. There is no automatic pull-over-to-the-side here. I don't quite see how this can be but I saw it again today. Three bright red fire trucks had to wait for people to cross the street in order to move through an intersection. A fire fighter in full gear is in the front passenger seat saying into the microphone, "Excuse us. We're coming through." Pedestrians trump firetrucks? Really?
I feel quite entitled to point out how selfish those are who will not move out of the way for vehicles on their way to save people. Why? I drive in Massachusetts. Massachusetts drivers are ranked 49th out of 50 in terms of the country's worst drivers. We (and I must add myself to this list) are affectionately referred to as "Massholes." I know bad driving. I really do. Then there is our wicked neighbor. Immediately south of Massachusetts is Rhode Island where the worst drivers in the US move to/live/breed/congregate. Survey after survey ranks those from Rhode Island as the worst drivers in the country. I couldn't agree more. Which is why when there is never a question for terrible American drivers to always and consistently move out of the way of ambulances, police cars, and fire trucks, and yet the generally-known-as-incredibly-polite Japanese can't seem to make way for these same vehicles, I cry foul.
What's going on here? Where has this general acceptance of bad manners come from? Come on, Japan. You can do better.
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